With the tourists gone, the most famous (and expensive) crab omelette in Thailand is an easy lunch.
As she cooks, Supinya Junsuta (สุภิญญา จันสุตะ) — known to most as Jay Fai — never stops shouting directions. Her small mob of assistants scurrying around her refilling bowls of spices, sauces, and seasonings. She rarely moves from her spot in front of a high-powered fan over the flaming woks with a full-face of makeup under her goggles. She never has a moment’s peace even though there are only three occupied tables at her modest restaurant that morning.